ClubCJ - The CJ Lancer Club

Had a customer in today with an 2009 Lancer showing a CEL and the big yellow ABS/ASC Requires service on the centre display. Scanned the car expecting to see C2116 abs power supply fault but it came up with C1000-sticking/faulty brake light switch. Looking a bit deeper we found the switch to be OK. We looked further and found both brake light globes had failed. Replaced those fault reset itself ABS ASC and cruise control all operating correctly
So a $50 job instead of $700 Abs pump repair.

lucky!

My ABS pump error coded and failed completely a few years back, ended up getting a 2nd hand one for $100 from a guy wrecking a lancer, which i then had rebuilt for good measure at some joint in Melbourne via post.

got it fitted back in the car to replace the faulty unit and its been going great ever since.

nice find
its a shame on the instrument cluster it doesnt tell you when the rear tail lights are blown
about 40 years or so ago the subaru sports wagons with their LCD instrument cluster, they told you when you blew a bulb, i really liked that cluster, it put 4 green wheels on the car when 4x4 engaged, and drew big blue headlights on the car when highbeam selected, and does what ours does and shows doors open when they are not closed etc.

lancerdarryl wrote:Had a customer in today with an 2009 Lancer showing a CEL and the big yellow ABS/ASC Requires service on the centre display. Scanned the car expecting to see C2116 abs power supply fault but it came up with C1000-sticking/faulty brake light switch. Looking a bit deeper we found the switch to be OK. We looked further and found both brake light globes had failed. Replaced those fault reset itself ABS ASC and cruise control all operating correctly
So a $50 job instead of $700 Abs pump repair.

Have you come across a C2116 yet?

Mine does - was about to embark on replacing the module today with a replacement module.

Undid the brake lines at the module and ONE of them now has a partially rounded nut - seems tight.

I’ve done probably 20 C2116 faults all up.ABS pump out and away to be repaired with only 1 failure.

lancerdarryl wrote:I’ve done probably 20 C2116 faults all up.ABS pump out and away to be repaired with only 1 failure.

I don't suppose you have any thoughts on the half rounded nut ?

In any of your repairs did you need any of the Mitsu tool stuff to calibrate the G sensor, M/C pressure or anything like that?

I don't suppose you have any thoughts on the half rounded nut ?

Were you using a proper brake line spanner , the ringy with a cut out to fit over the brake line?
If not , and if you can get to the rooted nut easy enough , is some vice grips to clamp on and undo it.
Was standard practice on old Landcruiser drum brake cylinders. They were always seized solid.

awood wrote:I don't suppose you have any thoughts on the half rounded nut ?

Were you using a proper brake line spanner , the ringy with a cut out to fit over the brake line?
If not , and if you can get to the rooted nut easy enough , is some vice grips to clamp on and undo it.
Was standard practice on old Landcruiser drum brake cylinders. They were always seized solid.

Nah, and that's definitely the cause. I got all 5 others undone, but that one is rounded, so I couldn't really get any force into it.
I figure though, I'll get some vice grips on it and hopefully that undoes it.

Putting it back together - I'll need a new nut? Not sure what exactly that is, and of course, it's a flared pipe..

As long as you don’t crush the flare nut into the pipe you should be able to reuse it.Never needed anything other than a scan tool to reset the fault and it's all good.

lancerdarryl wrote:As long as you don’t crush the flare nut into the pipe you should be able to reuse it.Never needed anything other than a scan tool to reset the fault and it's all good.

I couldn't get it with a flare nut spanner (10) - just tries to round off even more.
Tried wedging a flat blade in the spanner with the bolt too, to fill any rounded gap - nope, still just turns.
Vice Grips couldn't get a good grip (plus I was being well.. bad choice of words - careful, so I could reuse.

As circled.

Opted to avoid having an open brakeline without a means of repair..
So put it back to bed and bled it all - back to well, the old ABS ECU..

I still need to get the hydraulic unit swapped, so I think..
If I get a replacement hardline from a wrecker, the line in the above picture appears to join here:


I think this is achievable:
Unbolt the hardline at the join pictured above.
Hacksaw the end at the ECU.
Install the replacement ECU and replacement hardline from the wrecker.
Bleed again..

Does that seem like a viable solution ?

You’ve got it.By the way you can cut through the pipe with a good pair of side cutters-much quicker and easier than a saw.Once you have the unit sitting in a benchvise it will be really easy to remove.