ClubCJ - The CJ Lancer Club

Hello there my CCJ Family

I am looking into servicing my 2011 VR myself this weekend and thought I might open this forum up to anyone whom may have tips or suggestions on filters and oils. What to keen eye out for other then the fluid levels.

I look forward to seeing the replies come in.

if your asking for tips on what to do, then DONT DO IT


take it to professionals....

I can do a service easily enough. Just want to get an idea of what brand of filters and oils others are using

Oil - generally you get what you pay for. Semi-syn would be nice, full syn if you're made of money (I don't think it's necessary in a N/A but having said that I have always used full synthetic oil in all my cars ever). In terms of brands... that's up for personal opinion.

I tend to stick with OEM filters and supplies, but I'm sure there are numerous folks who swear there's nothing wrong with third party filters (Ryco being one infamous brand; Westfil and Purolator others). You'll find model/sizing charts next to the oil filters themselves in your local car parts store.

Coolant - if you're changing be very aware don't get GM/Dexcool. Those things don't mix well with any other brands. Red, Green, Yellow - any and all other long life antifreeze/antiboil/coolant mix will do.

Spark plugs - if you're changing your plugs, unless you have a very compelling reason; replace with the same brand, model and heat range plugs you're pulling out. ie. unless your engine builder/tuner specifically points to you a set of plugs, don't sway from OEM spec.

If you have a habit of putting catpiss into your tank (ie. E10), it's a good idea to run through a batch of fuel injector cleaner and/or upper cylinder lubricant (Seaform is infamously good). If you tend to use premium fuels, you've got no worries.

Oil filters stick to oem!!

RUN, RUN far away from your cheap crap fram, ryco, repco, cooper, mobil etc... oil filters.... id rather get bent over by the dealer an extra $2 a filter than using cheaper poorer quality oil filter and risk a the filter fail while driving. Ive seen too many fail over the years and i still to this day have not seen or even heard of an oem oil filter failing that has been maintained properly...My mate used a ryco and it failed after 2 days, thank fu^K he reveresed parked hes car in the driveway so he could see the oil pissing out before the engine warmed up...

theres even some Korea and China filters flooding the market you can buy them for about $3-8 depending on where you shop. Buyer Be warned! I cant comment on these because I dont know anyone using them...

dont waste your money on KN racing hi performance, hi flow (better filtering, um hi flow = less filter) more power and promises to make the car go faster LOL. ryco has better quality then kn oil filters....PERIOD! (if you dont belive me go open 10-15kn filters and look at the variations on each one you will be shocked.. the money you pay for kn may as well buy oem


start a fire, get ready to roast some oil filters...hks, blitz,cusco,greedy, prova filters etc.... should be put in the fire, these company should really stick to what there good at! Making cars go faster. they have only been making oil filters for a few years now....Still a virgin in the market... and buyer beware! I have seen countless people saying "yeh bro madd filter" then a week later there standing like a snow-man on the side of the road saying "yeh bro madd filter failed"


Oils nothing wrong with nulon range, amsoil if you want full hardcore racing oil that makes your car go faster LOL, but seriously amsoil is good stuff their oils are true man made synthetic oils, as nulon, shell, penrite etc... are a grade 4 oil which is highly refined mineral oil with addidtives chucked in so law says it can be classified as syntheic....theres nothing wrong with them though, there both still very good oils...amsoil is a prick to get your hands on though, ive got a guy that i get it from myself....hes in Sydney...


If you want a basic service without knowing KMS and past service histroy you should get


OEM Oil Filter
OEM Air Filter
OEM Oil Sump Crush Washer
OEM Gearbox Oil Fill Washer
OEM Gearbox Oil Drain Washer
OEM Power Steering Fluid 1 Litre
OEM/NGK Spark Plugs if your near or past 80,000kms or use crap fuel...
OEM/Nulon Coolant if your 3years or 50,000kms +
Nulon or Motul Engine Oil
Nulon or Motul Gearbox Oil
Motul or Castrol Brake/Clutch Fluid
CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner
Anti Seize Grease
Electrical Contact Lube
Battery Terminal Spray
Demonized Water (For coolant)
degreaser (so you can clean the mess you made)
Washer Fluid
New car smell HAHAHAHAHAHA

Brakes? Check
Lights? Check
Wipers? Check
Tyres? Check tyre wear


Tools needed....Jack, Jack Stands, gloves, glasses, rags, creeper, spanners, sockets and wrench, spark plug remover, torque wrench, push clip removers, torch, rags, battery terminal cleaner wire brush.

After replacing all fluids,

check engine compt compentents, belt tension and wear marks, pulley wobble and squeeks, bolts, exhaust for leaks and cracks, engine and gearbox mounts, coolant, intake vac hoses etc etc...

check suspension, shocks for leaks, bolts, ball joints bushes are in good condition and not leaking, loose or cracked etc...

check drivetrain, wheel bearings, cv joints, for leaking or cracked etc etc..

anti seize wheel nuts!!!


Go over your service logg book, that will tell you a basic understanding on what really happens in a basic service (or you hope so LOL)



hope this helps you

I am going to vote for self service. Because in reality it's not really hard and you can save a good amount of money. Generally I use OEM parts but honestly if you're going to stick to the service interval in the manual it doesn't really matter what brand filter or oil etc. you use as long it's the same specs as OEM.

I have never blown up a car using parts and consumables from Super cheap / Autobarn whatever. Some dealerships don't stick to what is in the service manual anyway!

Best thing if you do your own service is you know exactly what is going into your car, and you can spot other potential problems. My dealership never changed the brake fluids in my car. I ended up having it done at AK racing and we upgraded to DOT 5 fluid which wouldn't have happened at Mitsubishi.

Nice one Scott!


Personally, as mine has fixed-price / capped servicing I'd rather pay the 'extra' and know that if something should fail post-service, all I have to do is hand the car back and it's their problem.

I also get roadside service as part of the deal which makes it an ever better argument to go with the dealer service.

If, as Scott mentions, a filter blew while you're on the freeway and your engine is trashed, no recourse under warranty.


I used to do half-interval oil & filter changes many years ago, but don't bother now as synthetic oils don't break down as quickly as mineral oils can.


Ultimately, just cost it all out - how much will you save doing it yourself as opposed to sitting in the service lounge drinking their coffee while someone else gets covered in dirt...

scott_drake wrote:if your asking for tips on what to do, then DONT DO IT take it to professionals....

How do you think people are supposed to learn you ding bat. Do you honestly think 'professionals' just wake up one morning and instantly know everything?

Hey Seven, If you feel confident, self service is fine, and it sounds like you are. OEM is fine for Filters and Oil etc, but honestly you could use a better oil if you like, there is a lot of debate over which is the best oil etc, and in this case, price isn't everything. You could use after market oil filter also, if its installed following the instructions I doubt you would have an issue, that said tho, the OEM is not too expensive, Megatron gets me the OEM one for a good price.

All this said, if you are under warranty, take it to a pro, just for the stamp

tl:dr from what Kirt said..

If you're confident do the service yourself, else take it to a professional - especially if you are still under warranty

From previous experience, my NA I had serviced by both Mitsubishi then my mate who was a mechanic and everything is fine. My RA has only been touched by Mitsubishi for all services and Ultratune for braking. (And my mate has been overseas so no-one I trust with it).

Awesome... Thanks guys.

fearfulmaster1 wrote:Capped price service comes with roadside assistance. That alone could cost around $80+ per year. If you intend to have roadside assistance, going to a dealer is not too bad of a deal, even if they only change the oil and oil filter and not much else for $195...

Then again, they do use Castrol synthetic, which isn't a cheapy oil...

Mitsubishi told me roadside assistance was separate to warranty. I had RACQ come out for free when my battery died and I couldn't unlock the car because the battery was dead flat. I have a smart key FYI.

Heres a nice and simple answer

OIL: - Penrite Racing 10 tenths 10W40
- TOTAL QUARTZ 9000 5W40
- Castrol magnatec 10W40

FILTER: - OEM only!

Please dont use crappy filters. Remember, its a filter thats filtering your engine. Mitsubishi has spent millions of $$ to make it right. Not some Ryco filter lol

i like how everyone is saying use oem filters only, i self service, and have never used oem filters