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Evo X Performance & Modifications.

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vermilioN
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Postby vermilioN » Wed May 01, 2013 10:38 am

I ordered my map oil line off ebay and ive been waiting for over 3 weeks :(
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Australia's sexiest blacked out ralliart ;)

evo x turbo, ets intercooler, turbosmart wga, aem intake, ur intercooler piping, ur turbo back exhaust, 3port

scott_drake
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Postby scott_drake » Thu May 02, 2013 2:38 am

Fine keep this thread up, i was going to put all the info i gathered with a new thread with the oil feed line...thought it would be easier to keep it in a new thread...

My game plan is, map high flow oil feed line, replace perrin muffler with straight pipes as i see it cuases a fair bit of back pressure u cant touch the centre of the muffler where the exhaust gases hit but the sides are fairly cool....considering tge perrin cat failed im taking the muffler is going ti fail next....im looking at the ets design exhaust.once those two mods are done a retune will be neccassary and fingers crissed that fixes the glow...


Oil line first...check if problem sorted....if still glow change muffler

And if still glow start the advace timing and if still the same i leave it lol


I also got a pic of the manifold glowing crazy ill upload tomorrow



Sent from my old skool nokia [/scroll]

scott_drake
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Postby scott_drake » Thu May 02, 2013 9:28 pm

PedjaEvo wrote:HEY! I noticed on my friends evo7 his oil was black...and the car was heating like crazy like the amount of heat from the engine from just a normal drive was crazy like an open oven, we checked the oil in the car it was blacker then blacker, never in my life did I see oil like that. SO we poured this oil that was 10w 50, and they said it cools the engine cuz its like thin, and that the 20w 50 is thick. Maybe you got the wrong oil? or check the coolant fluid?


Mate you still got have a lot to learn about cars. the colour of oil means NOTHING in modified turbo cars...Black is the least of the worries when it comes to oil. my oil was black after a few days...after 5000kms (next service) i sent the oil away to get tested and only lost about 2% of one of its main properties of the oil wich was still classified as good oil...you could go for about 10,000kms with no oil change so long as the oil does not go below the low point on your dipstick and as long as you have a air filter that filters and a good air fuel mixture you will be fine for 10,000kms safely....but better safe than sorry...

mabey your mates evo has a thermostat that is stuck closed to be making it very hot, aswell it would be a million other things....as with my car its been nailed down to 3 possible things

1: Oil Feed Line could be slightly blocked
2: Rear muffler could be causing excess back pressure (slightly blocked)
3: Timing may be off (too retarded)

Those are the 3 things that could be causing my issue and im going to try one by one from cheapest to the most expensive

scott_drake
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Postby scott_drake » Thu May 02, 2013 9:37 pm

vermilioN wrote:I ordered my map oil line off ebay and ive been waiting for over 3 weeks :(



yeh man thats america combined with ebay for you man...Nice and slow..You should have CALLED map and pay direct to them over the phone, yes i know it requires you to wake up at 2am to make the call but hey at least you speak to someone and gets sent out in the mail a few hours later, no hassle with emails, accounts, verification etc,,, i feel your pain

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McCoy
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Postby McCoy » Sat May 04, 2013 10:54 am

How many km's scott?

Timing still makes the most sense to me, but I havent seen the mapping so I can't comment. It could well be a restriction in the exhaust, it could well be a collapsed cat or perhaps a colapsed flex joint. I've seen that a few times before, those ultimate racing exhausts have had failures of the flex joints more than a few times, causing stupid amounts of heat that can't be released.

It could well be an oil feed and/or return line, but if none of that's been played with, I'm not sure why there would be an issue there.
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An invaluable sales tool when used incorrectly

scott_drake
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Postby scott_drake » Sat May 04, 2013 5:53 pm

McCoy wrote:How many kms scott? Timing still makes the most sense to me, but I havent seen the mapping so I cant comment. It could well be a restriction in the exhaust, it could well be a collapsed cat or perhaps a colapsed flex joint. Ive seen that a few times before, those ultimate racing exhausts have had failures of the flex joints more than a few times, causing stupid amounts of heat that cant be released. It could well be an oil feed and/or return line, but if none of thats been played with, Im not sure why there would be an issue there.



its a perrin exhaust with up to the down pipe, Yeh we replaced the cat converter to a 100cell one, the perrin one was a 200cell that was broken you could shake it and here the honey comb move, we retuned it and mabey about a 5% less glow... ive ordered a map high flow oil feed line and where going to try that hopefully in about 2-3weeks when it comes in stock, now if that does not do the trick im going to get rid off the perrin muffler and have a straight piping exhaust such as the ETS exhausts designs to remove as much restrictions.....Im stll running the stock down pipe but dont think it needs changing as the stock manifold and down pipe seem to be a good match for the stock turbo.....Ive got a fairly large service due for the car soon

Front Brake pads, machine front discs
Oil Change elf 5-40w
KN Oil Filter
Elf gear box oil
Elf t case oil
Elf Rear diff oil plus overfill rear diff
Mobile power steering fluid
HKS Oil thermostat
Ralliart 1.3 Radiator Cap
Ralliart coolant thermostat
Map High Flow Oil Feed Line
custom Rear exhaust section
ngk spark plugs
retune


Now if that dont fix my problem im probaly going to tow the car down to you and get you to play around with it and try find my problem becuase seems like you know the evo 10 very well....Oh yeh and my car has 46,000kms and the clutch is soon due,,,i can tell pedel pressure has gone from hard to now soft and engaugement is fairly high....Ill be going the ACT 6 puck clutch sprung hub with a 13lbs flywheel ive heard good stuff about that combo on the evo 10s in the US....

scott_drake
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Postby scott_drake » Sat May 04, 2013 6:06 pm

McCoy wrote:H.



and im looking into a new motor build, what is your input on this combo

ferrea valve train
cosworth bottom end (forged cossy's but stock bore and stroke)
MAP ef3 turbo set up
Map turbo support
All other engine support mods, mounts, fuel, gaskets, oil pans, pumps, chains etc......
drive drain of corse


This will be a weekend driven warrior, what are your imputs on this build? and in terms of labour how much am i looking at for a engine build, run in and tune?? im just looking at ball park figures now

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McCoy
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Postby McCoy » Sat May 04, 2013 9:06 pm

I wouldn't use a 6 puck and lightweight flywheels are great for a car with no torque, say a Honda, but not an AWD Turbo charged car that has bucket loads of Torque.

A chromo flywheel is the best option as it's good at dealing with heat, the Evo X flywheel is thinnest up to the top near the ring gear, so you want something that can cope with the torture.

I'd go a full face organic disc, but the trick will be to get a higher clamp load and the pressure plate, say between 1250-1350kgs. I've done this with literally dozens of Evo's with nothing but good results, these cars being weekend warrior, club level motorsport cars.

As for an engine build, my advice will vary depending on what your exact application is going to be. Map EF turbo isn't what I'd recommend, just to many failures have popped up. The rest of what you've said is fine, give me a call to discuss what you want to do moving forward. I'll try to help where I can. ;)
Dyno's



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An invaluable sales tool when used incorrectly

scott_drake
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Postby scott_drake » Sat May 04, 2013 10:28 pm

McCoy wrote:I wouldnt Id recommend, just to many failures have popped up. The rest of what youve said is fine, give me a call to discuss what you want to do moving forward. Ill try to help where I can. ;)



Ok in terms of clutch woild u recomend the exedy stock clutch disc with the exedy heavy duty pressure plate with a flywheel resurface?? What woild u recomend for a clutch combo?? Im not intrested in multiplates...my mechanic can do clutch for me but im undiced on what combo....i want to have one ready to go when it does go out...ive also got the map slave cyclinder for rhd on order with the turbo line....


In terms of motor i see i have a good combo minus the turbo....what turbo would u go?? Im the type that cant save money lol where i rather buy part buy part month by month if u get me...my pockets arent deep but will go deep over time with the parts....could u pm me back for a clutch combo recomendation and ill call u on monday regarding engine build


Thanks heaps


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