ClubCJ - The CJ Lancer Club

Gday

I own a 2012 Ralliart and have had a check engine light come up. I had it scanned at super cheap and had a bunch of fault codes. Have anyone delt with the P0365 (camshafts position sensor) code, if so what was the fix?

Cheers

Clear all the faults and see if it comes back.It may be only a faulty sensor.

Can't remember when they got rid of the 10 yr drivetrain warranty for original owner. Worth checking if you are the first owner.

lancerdarryl wrote:Clear all the faults and see if it comes back.It may be only a faulty sensor.

Will give it a go thanks

fearfulmaster2 wrote:Can't remember when they got rid of the 10 yr drivetrain warranty for original owner. Worth checking if you are the first owner.

I wish, second hand owner and have had the car for 6months

Considering you had a bunch of fault codes prior scan you might need check your battery? I had a dying battery on mine a while ago, and because of that the dash was lighting like a Christmass tree

SEB15 wrote:Considering you had a bunch of fault codes prior scan you might need check your battery? I had a dying battery on mine a while ago, and because of that the dash was lighting like a Christmass tree

So I’ve got a
P0365
U0184
U0100
B120B

I disconnected my battery for a while and the codes went away but came back on again today,
Got it read again and it was the exact same
Codes and the Supercheap Auto guy also told me that he couldn’t d clear the codes after trying several time :/

--p1879-4th gear block.
--u0100 is a generic code set to indicate that its ECU has been flashed at some point.
-- DTC U0184 (audio time-out)
-- P0365 Cam sensor
I will be more concerned about P1879 and P0367
The car is modified in any way? It's still running normally?

How old is the battery? These engines don't require much CCA to start so a bad battery may appear to start fine but cause the ECU to go wonky.

You could try purchasing a decent battery charger. They don't go amiss, and the multi stage chargers help extend the life of the battery. They eventually pay for themselves...

Rejuvenation mode would be recommended followed by normal charge. You can charge with the battery in the vehicle, but it could take over a day due to the stages so take that into consideration.

Here's one to consider. It has 7-stages and should be easy enough to find from SCA:
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca ... t=3&page=1

It appears that there is an older version of it. Do not get that, get the new version, which adds support for AGM batteries etc. Even if you think you don't n need that function, it's likely other features have been improved.

I have this one:
https://www.repco.com.au/en/brands/proj ... p/A9446185

Repco have it on sale at the moment though at a few dollars less than SCA who have it on clearance. It's been around a few years now, I got mine when it first came out. It's a good charger, but I'd probably go the SCA one now as it had some advantages. Advantages of the Projecta Procharge is IP65 water/dust protection, but that isn't relevant for charging at home.

At least then you'll know if it was the battery, if it works good, but if it doesn't help you haven't wasted it as you can use it for maintenance. Probably good to run a charge twice a year, and you can help family or friends if their battery is dicky.

Just jumping in for a moment...

I think I know the answer but should you always disconnect the positive before charging, and how does this affect the ECU?

My battery is only 6 months old but I have noticed it dropping in volts.

Background - I've got both dash cams hard wired in with a box that cuts the power if it falls to 12v or after a set time (12 hours). But lately I've noticed the dash cams only staying on a couple of hours and not the 12 I have set, meaning its dropped to 12v. Now I did try setting the min volts to 12.5 but the DC turns off the moment I turn off the cars engine. Clearly meaning its only sitting between 12-12.5v.

What is a healthy volts reading for a relatively now battery?

Considering getting a jump start kit, just in case.

Sorry to butt in.

Info varies slightly depending on where you look and the type of battery, but generally should be about 12.6 V or above. A fully charged lead acid battery is more like 13.2 V or something. If you're getting down to 12 V it's considerably discharged.

You don't need to disconnect the battery to charge on most cars, although some fancier cars you may need to be more careful due to security features. If you don't lock the car these shouldn't be affected, in which case you recharge inside a shed. Charging in place in car is ONLY true with a modern charger with safety protections, some don't have these. The SCA and Projecta I mentioned do have these. For instance, they won't spark when connecting and disconnecting and safe to do so even with the charger on.

Sounds like you need to invest in one of these chargers. You probably aren't running the car long enough to charge the battery fully, and the cameras are draining it. It's possible the capacity has reduced due to sulphation, those two chargers can help with that.

Unfortunately lately I've only been able to do small runs, maybe 10-15 min a trip. Planning a day trip up the coast in the new year.

Will add before I fixed a wiring mistake with the DC it did drain the battery to much and after 3 days I needed a jump.

SEB15 wrote:--p1879-4th gear block.
--u0100 is a generic code set to indicate that its ECU has been flashed at some point.
-- DTC U0184 (audio time-out)
-- P0365 Cam sensor
I will be more concerned about P1879 and P0367
The car is modified in any way? It's still running normally?

Mods I’ve got per say are only a
Evo X bov
Turbo XS Catback
Stage 1 GST base map tune.

Car runs completely as usual with the CEL on,
I disconnected the battery again, and I usual drive with my windows down, but as it’s getting hot, had the aircon running, idk if it’s a coincidence or relevant at all but thinking back, the CEL have only popped up when the air speed control was set to auto.

I’ll get a new battery and see how I go,
Thanks heaps

P1879 and P0367 wasn’t on the list of codes I got from the scan so I shouldnt worry about those right ?

I’ve only had the car for about 5 months and is new to the scene so all advice is most appreciated

"P" error codes are usually errors related to the drive train

To clear fault codes and do general reading of the lancer if you are on a budget you can get one of these

OBD-II Engine Code Reader with Bluetooth® Technology | Jaycar Electronics
https://www.jaycar.com.au/obd-ii-engine ... y/p/PP2145

This works fine with an android. It's far from the world's fastest OBD2 reader , infact probably one of the world's slowest.
However , you don't need rocketship speed to clear fault codes. If you have an iPhone this won't work.
However android phone are very inexpensive now days for for under $50 2nd hand you can get one and use it for the scanner, or try and find something else iPhone comparable.
There is a number of applications you can get to clear the codes with and all the rest
One that does work is called "car scanner" for Android.
There's a few around and some better then other's.
This OBD2 tool from Jaycar I know for a fact it works with the lancer cos I bought one some time ago to clear a few fault codes as well so there is no dramas there.
With battery that is starting to die yes it absolutely will cause dramas with the ECU makes zero difference if it is a car , truck , motorcycle or what ever.
Long story short , if there isn't enough power to run the electronics , the data signal itself start's to degrade from the ECU
A standard old desktop PC when the power supply in it gets old and the capacitors start to get a bit tired you will get all sorts of dumb errors like the main board wanting to do a reset and video card issues and all sorts of dumb stuff. Electronic gear needs a nice good clean power supply free of Electrical noise in the first place to run at it's very optimal. Feel free to do some reading on TTL circuit and see how small the voltages are required to run it and what happens when the power supply is slowly decreased.